In the first week of February I was busy sewing historical costumes (stage costumes, not for reconstruction purposes). I thought that I could take this opportunity to show you my way of making a decorative facing of a keyhole neckline – in particular, how to press curved edges and corners. Besides, this kind of faced neckline can also be added to everyday clothing ?
Drafting the neckline facing
Preparing the facing is really simple. The width of the facing and shape of the outer line totally depends on you. The inner line is just a copy of the neck line.
Of course, you should add seam allowances around the facing.
And also make sure that the facing of the front and back smoothly blend into one another on the outer line.
Shoulder line, in historical costumes, goes parallel to the ground, so if you’re sewing everyday clothes this will look a little different.
Attaching the facing to your garment
Before you start sewing, make a cardboard template of the facing pieces. Cut off seam allowances on the templates – on the outer line and the shoulder line.
1. Place the front template on the facing and mark the position of the inward corners. Then sew the shoulder line on the facing pieces and press the seams in the opposite direction to your garment’s seams.
2. Make an auxiliary stitching on the curved edges (on the seam allowances, so that the stitching won’t be visible on the outside after pressing). Stitch the facing along the corners markings (you can decrease the stitch length). Pull the ends of the threads to gather the fabric on the curved edges, then clip the corners to the stitching.
3. Place the front template on the facing and press the edges according to the template.
4. Repeat the step with the template on the back.
5. Place the right side of the prepared facing on the wrong side of your garment and sew it along the neckline. Then clip the curves on the seam allowances, and trim the corners diagonally – you can also trim the whole seam allowances around the neckline.
6. Understitch – this auxiliary stitching should be made along the edge, joining only the seam allowances and the garment. Of course, you won’t be able to sew it around the neckline slit, just skip this section.
Understitching makes it really easy to press the edge of a neckline when you turn your facing right side out.
7. Turn the facing right side out, push out the corners. Then press the neckline edge.
8. Sew the facing along the outer edge.
And this is how the ready neckline with facing looks like 🙂
My method of sewing may not be the fastest, but you can easily achieve a nice looking neckline with it. And how do you deal with necklines like this?