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Shortening the shoulder line, sew Along - simple cardigan, tutorial, DIY

Sew along – simple cardigan, tutorial part 3

In the second part of this tutorial we ended up with a body of the cardigan. Now we need to add the sleeves and sew on pockets.
As a reminder – finished cardigan pictures can be found here: Black cardigan with faux leather pockets
Previous parts of the tutorial:

Table of contents:

Adjusting the arm length to your silhouette

One of the most common problems in fitting are too long shoulder lines.

1. Try on the body of the cardigan and draw the correct shoulder / armhole line.

2. Smooth the lines. All curves should blend gently into the original armhole.

3.Trim the armhole and transfer the changes to the other side.

Such changes can affect the armhole length – that’s why it is best to cut sleeves after fitting.

Sewing Sleeves

My coverstitch machine has difficulties sewing over bulky seams so I sew the sleeves hems first.

1. Measure the width of the hem and press it.

2. Sew it. If you don’t have coverstitch machine you can use e.g. double needle..

3. Pin the sleeves, then sew them and secure the edges.

4. Press the seams – in my case toward the front, so that the seams under the arm pass by the side seams.

5. Fasten the seams to the hem.

Sewing in the sleeves

1. If your sleeve circumference is bigger than the armhole, then you need to set in the sleeve.

2. Sew the sleeve cap twice and gently pull the thread ends. Distribute the fabric along the curve.

3. Match the shoulder seam with the notch on the sleeve cap, pin it.

4. Join the points under arm – fold side seam to the back, sleeve seam to the front.
5. Pin the rest of the sleeve and sew it.
6. Secure the edges.
At this point you should have the finished garment, but you can add, like me, some details e.g. pockets.

Sewing on pockets

Mine are strictly decorative, made of faux leather – this way I don’t have to worry about finishing the edges.

Enjoy your new cardigan 🙂

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