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how to sew a simple cardigan, sew along, tutorial, diy

Sew along – simple cardigan, tutorial part 2

Today I’m going to show you how to sew a cardigan that we drafted in the last post (part 1 of the tutorial).

At the beginning I just want to remind you that there are a lot of different sewing techniques. What’s important is the final result, so if you feel more comfortable sewing in different way, just do it 🙂

Some things were simplified for obvious reasons, but I hope everything is clear

Table of contents:

Cutting and interfacing the pieces

1.Cut the pieces, make sure to maintain straight grain (the arrow on your pattern should be parallel to the edge of your fabric (selvage)). Transfer notches to the fabric (make small 2-3 mm / 0.1 in cut on the seam allowances) as shown in the picture (red marks). Mark the center of the darts with a tailor’s chalk.

It is a good practice to cut sleeves after fitting. This way if your armhole length change you can change your sleeves also.

2. Interface the back neckline with bias cut strip of interfacing. Adjust the strip to the neckline’s curve and fuse it.

3. Reinforce the shoulder line on the back piece with strips of interfacing cut on the “straight grain”.

4. Fuse small pieces of interfacing on the front, to secure the corners.

Sewing darts

I’m sewing the shoulder dart, but if you didn’t move your dart you will be sewing the bust dart.

1. Align the dart notches together and pin it, so that the fold line passes through the tip of the dart.

2. Sew the darts. I prefer to do it from the base to the tip of a dart. I start to sew aligning the tip of the dart to the needle. Finish the dart with a gentle curve.
3.Press the darts. My fabric was quite thick so I decided to cut the dart open.

Sewing the sides of the cardigan

Mostly knitted sleeves can be sewn “flat”. I prefer to use set-in method – this way I can try on my garment first.

1. Pin the sides. Start with aligning the waist notches, then match the rest.

2. Sew the sides. After joining the sides, secure the edges with overlock or zigzag stitch.

Sewing the stand-up collar

1. Make auxiliary stitch on the corners (only where the interfacing is). Sew straight to the corner, stop with needle in a down position, raise the foot and turn your fabric to change the sewing direction.

2.Cut the seam allowances on the corners to your stitch.

3. Align front pieces together (the right side of fabric inside), and sew the center of the collar. Press the seam allowances open.

4. Pin the front and the back shoulder line toward the corners.

5.Match the notch on the back neckline with the center seam on the collar. Pin the rest of the collar toward the corners.

6. Sew it in one go. Sew the corners along the auxiliary stitching.

7. Press it. Because of the thick fabric I decided to press the seam allowances open. You can press it all up (the shoulder seams toward the back).

8. Secure the shoulder seam allowances with overlock or zigzag stitch.

Hemming and sewing the corners

1. Press the side seam toward the back. Secure the edge of the cardigan around with overlock or zigzag stitch. While finishing the edge, fold the side seams (at the bottom) in the opposite direction (toward the front).

2. Draw the fold line around the edge (mine is in 4 cm distance).
3. Fold the corners (the right side of fabric inside) and sew them.
4. Trim the tip. Press the seam allowances open.
5. Turn the corners right side out, push the corners. Press them.
6. Press the cardigan edge along the drawn line. Clip the side seam allowances on the fold line and fold the seam allowances on the side and on the hem in the opposite directions.
7. Hand sew the hem with a blind stitch.

See the third part of this tutorial: ew along – simple cardigan, tutorial part 3

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