As promised, I’m posting the first part of the tutorial based on this cardigan.
- Sew along – simple cardigan, tutorial part 1
- Sew along – simple cardigan, tutorial part 2
- Sew along – simple cardigan, tutorial part 3
I drafted a pattern for this sweater myself, but I will show you how to make it without a pattern making knowledge. Keep in mind that this is a pattern that will be used with a knit fabric.
Table of contents:
- Finding a base pattern
- Matching sleeves to the pattern
- Pattern manipulation
- Adding seam and hem allowances
You’ll need to find some base model for this cardigan. A simple model without any embellishments will be best. It would be also good if it was a pattern with sleeves and for knit fabrics.
This tutorial was based on a free pattern from Papavero. It’s not the best candidate, but I couldn’t find anything better. However, if you have some other pattern feel free to use it. You will probably need to choose a smaller size from Papavero because it’s a pattern for woven fabrics.
1. Straighten the back line on the pattern – if your pattern is for knits it’s probably already a straight line.
Note – all pattern alterations are made without seam allowances!
Your new line should be parallel to the straight grain.
2. My model has a shoulder dart instead of the bust dart so you can move it if you want, but it’s not crucial to this tutorial.
Measure the armhole length on the front and back piece of the pattern. Choose sleeves that have similar cap length to measured value: sleeve patterns.
1. Back neckline.
This kind of collar looks best when the back neckline (on a base pattern) is close to the neck. Tissue fit you pattern or compare the pattern to some blouse to decide if you want to narrow and/or reduce the back neckline – if so, you can change it in the following way:
- Extend the arm line toward the back by desired amount. If the neckline is also too deep – extend the back line as well.
- Draw a new neckline to the designated points. It should go straight at some distance from the back and then draw a smooth curve. This line should enter the arm line at the right angle.
- Extend the arm line on the front piece by the same amount.
For comparison my back neckline has a length of 10 cm / 4 in (on half).
2. Shortening the back. I assumed that my cardigan should end 4 cm / 1.5 in below the waist (you can choose a different value).
- Mark the waist line (pattern should have notches at the waist).
- Draw a second line parallel to the waist line – mine 4 cm / 1.5 in below.
3. Closing the front line – optional. Models like this have tendency to gaping above the bust but this little modification will help to reduce it.
- Cut the pattern in straight line from the front to the armhole.
- Rotate the top piece down.
- Tape the pattern pieces together.
Extend the arm line by the width of a stand-up collar – mine was 4 cm / 1.5 in. From that point draw a line – how long it would be and at what angle, is up to you.
6. Connect the bottom of the front with the point on the side.
7. Extend the front line upwards, draw a second, parallel line at the distance of the stand-up collar width (4 cm / 1.5 in).
8. Measure the length of the back neckline and transfer that value onto the second line. Draw another line at the right angle to the second line and extend it toward the front.
Your pattern is ready, now you have to add some seam and hem allowances.
1. Add standard seam allowances (mine 1 cm / 0.4 in) at marked places.
You could finished at that point, but it will be easier to sew if you take care of that sharp corner’s allowances.
4. Draw the bisector of the angle (the corner) – hope you remember how to do it from your math class 🙂
Hope you liked this tutorial, and you’re ready to sew 🙂
See the next part: Sew Along – simple cardigan, tutorial part 2