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how to lower or raise bust line on a pattern, pattern alteration, princess seam

How to lower or raise bust line on a pattern with a princess seam

In the picture below you can see how it looks like when the bust line is too high on the pattern compared to your body. It’s easy to alter it but you have to do it on a pattern.how to lower or raise bust line on a pattern, pattern alteration, princess seam

How to alter the pattern

All the pattern alterations should be done without seam allowances.
1. Draw a straight line on a paper (longer than height of your pattern piece). Extend grain line on your pattern, then place the pattern piece on the drawn line (align the lines).
2. Redraw part of the pattern on the paper (black outline).
3. Lower or raise your pattern along the vertical line – I moved it about 1.5 – 2 cm / 0.5-0.8″. Redraw the bust part (green outline).
4. Fill the gap (red outline). Measure the front line and compare it to the original pattern. If the line is shorter or longer alter the front piece of the pattern. Measure the length from the top to the notch on the front piece of the pattern and transfer the notch’s position to the side panel.

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